1/2/2024 0 Comments G4 quicksilver![]() I fixed (most of) the horrible cuts I did with the hack saw ![]() Sorry about the white balance on these photos. I went and picked up some 21 TPI jigsaw blades and started cutting. Marked where to cut for airflow and cable management Marked where to cut (though these cuts probably aren't necessary) I took the Antec 400W PSU out of my Dell and put it in the G4 Case I was up until 2 this morning soldering, and modified the power/reset buttons and power LED using this tutorial. Update 14: Installing the wall and front panel IO Update 10: 3.5" HDD mount, fan added, rear trim modded, various other mods Update 9: Installing the Laser Hive conversion kit Update 7: Motherboard arrived/Building the AirPort card Update 1: Power switch/Cable management holes Let me know if there's any errors or if anything needs to be explained better I think I covered everything but it's late and I'm tired. That's all I've got for now, hope you all enjoyed. The reason I'm looking at that motherboard is because it's narrow which means I could put the optical drive back in. I think I'll sell a few spare computers I don't need and get some new hardware for this thing. I was going to change the order, but I decided to stick with it. Oh well, I won't make that mistake again. I skimmed over that when looking for the dimensions and didn't think to actually verify what socket it was until after I had placed the order Unfortunately, I made the mistake of assuming that because the heatsink was listed under socket 775, the one I chose was actually 775. I ordered a new heatsink along with some PSU extension cables. Trying to get the nuts on some of those screws is a real pain in the ass.Īs you can see here, the door won't close all the way: This method for mounting the motherboard works, but I would recommend using regular standoffs if possible. ![]() (I thought the motherboard might touch the screws for the latch so I covered them with electrical tape just in case) A couple of the screws are crooked because they happened to be close to where the holes for the original standoffs are. These need to be wider than the screws because the whole thing moves when you pull the handle. ![]() Once I got all the screws in, I had to mark on the plastic latch mechanism where to drill holes to clear the screws. The screws I used instead of standoffs are only 6/32", but I made the holes bigger so I could make some adjustments if necessary. I used a 1/8" drill and drilled holes in the case through each of the holes on the motherboard, took the motherboard out, and then used a larger drill (11/32" IIRC) to make the other holes bigger. I used the motherboard itself as a guide to drill the holes. To align the motherboard, I put cards in the highest and lowest slots on the motherboard and screwed them into the slots on the case. To take off the side panel, you have to remove the 4 screws on the outside and then push in the two tabs shown here: Like I said, I wasn't originally planning on doing a build log so I didn't take any photos as I did this part of the mod, but I went back and took it apart and took some photos of everything I've done so far. I have a bunch of ideas in mind for this project, but for now here's the important part: So far the only major goal I have for this project is to keep the case looking as close to stock as possible (except for the back). Originally I wasn't going to do a build log because I was just going to hack it up and get the motherboard mounted in there and call it done, but I decided to do it right. I've had this PowerMac G4 Quicksilver collecting dust for a while, and I had enough spare PC parts laying around and needed a project so I decided to gut the G4 and modify it to fit standard ATX parts.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |